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Cassoulet’s
beans and meat, in
moderate portions, make for a
perfect winter
lunch.
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"Oh, the wolf winds are wailing at the doorway,
And the great white cold walks abroad.”
This phrase from a song I sang
in high school chorus always brings a chill to my bones and
the desire to snuggle up to a bowl of something warm. January
weather calls for comfort, but the indulgences of the holidays
call for restraint and austerity. With the midnight tolling
of the new year, resolutions are inaugurated for a healthier
regime of diet and exercise.
This is the year we will become
the people we have always wanted to be. What ’s the answer? Well,
it could be cassoulet, that quintessential dish of bourgeois
French cuisine named after the pot it is cooked in and revered
by gourmets and gourmands the world over. James Beard described
it as a dish “so hearty it can only be eaten safely at
midday with plenty of time for a digestive stupor.” I
suppose in those quantities, no dish could be thought of as “healthy,” but
in more moderate terms, this casserole of meat and beans can
possess elements of low fat, high fiber, high protein and complex
carbohydrates that give it credential in the world of sensible
eating. The problem with the
three classical versions from Castelnaudary, Carcassonne and
Toulouse is that in addition to lean meat and beans, they also
contain varying amounts of pork fat, pork skin, goose or duck
preserved in fat and sausage.
The characteristic “crust” of
the cassoulet is often created with a topping of breadcrumbs
mixed with spices and lard. The recipe here adheres to the
three basic rules of healthier cooking that we’ll highlight
in the “America’s Home Cooking” special that
will premiere this month on WQED: (1) Judicious substitution
of lower-fat ingredients. (2) Aggressive seasoning to heighten
flavor without additional salt. (3) Portion control. Although
this recipe requires a day and a half for preparation, all
but the last hour and a half to two hours are unattended and
only add warmth and great aromas to your winter kitchen. Just
remember: A little of this protein powerhouse goes a long way
in any diet and is best accompanied by a nice green salad.
Enjoyed in moderation, this tasty casserole will leave you
singing by the fire and not lying in a caloric stupor.
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Ingredients:
11/2 pounds white beans, uncooked, such as Great Northern, navy or even
lima or butter beans
1 smoked turkey leg
8 cups chicken stock
2 cups white wine
1 bay leaf
4 whole cloves
4 cloves garlic
2 cups onion, chopped
1 cup celery, chopped
1 cup carrots, coarsely chopped
1 pork shoulder roast (2 pounds)
1 pound turkey kielbasa sausage
(no skin), cut in slices
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon thyme
1 teaspoon fresh black pepper
2 ounces fried pork rinds
2 cups breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons tomato paste
Fresh parsley, chopped
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Directions:
Rinse beans and pick out any discolored beans. Place in a Crock-Pot with the
smoked turkey leg, 8 cups chicken stock, 2 cups white wine, the bay leaf,
cloves, garlic, onions, celery and carrots. Put on low and cook overnight.
Rub the pork roast with a little salt and pepper and roast at 325 degrees
for 2 hours. Cool slightly and then dice the meat and discard the fat. Drain
the beans, reserving the liquid, discarding the bay leaf and cloves, and
take the meat off the turkey leg. Cut the meat into bite-size pieces and
set aside. Chop the fresh garlic cloves and mix with the thyme and cracked
black pepper. Crush the pork rinds and mix with the breadcrumbs. Assemble
the casserole with a layer of beans, a sprinkling of the garlic/herb mixture
and half the turkey, pork and kielbasa. Repeat once again and end with a
layer of beans. Mix 2 tablespoons of tomato paste into the reserved liquid.
Pour the liquid over the layers until it just comes up to the top. Cover
and bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour. Uncover and sprinkle with the breadcrumb
mixture. Bake another hour until the liquid has been reduced and the top
is brown and crusty. Make sure each serving has some of the crusty topping
and a sprinkling of fresh parsley.
Serves 8.
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TOP
10 ESSENTIALS FOR COOKING
Here's
my top-10 list of kitchen essentials for a well-equipped
kitchen:
1. An
8-inch chef knife and 3-inch paring knife. Make sure they
are high-carbon stainless, forged knives. Avoid the "82-knife
set."
2. Cutting
board. I favor nylon or bamboo. In either case, make sure
it is lightweight and at least 12-by-20-inches.
3. Measuring
cups and spoons. You'll need a 2-cup and a 4-cup liquid measuring
cup, a set of measuring cups for dry ingredients and a set
of measuring spoons. Stainless steel is the most durable.
4. A
12-inch nonstick skillet with cover. Tri-ply such as All-Clad
is the best for even heating. This pan does everything from
omelets to sautés.
5. An
8-quart stock pot. This is essential for boiling pasta, steaming
vegetables or making large batches of chili, soups and stews.
6. Colander.
Get stainless steel with firmly riveted handles.
7. A
3-quart covered saucepan. This rounds out your pots-and-pans
inventory for small boiling projects and heating canned soups.
8. A
four-sided cheese grater. Freshly grated cheese is a big
flavor boost for your cooking. This tool is also useful for
grating vegetables and shredding lemon zest.
9. Sheet
pan. This inexpensive pan has raised sides and can be used
to bake cookies, breads and pizza, or to roast vegetables
and meats.
10. A
6-quart slow cooker. This is a working couple's best friend.
Ten minutes of prep in the morning yields a dinner entree
and loads of leftovers. The models with the thickest insert
provide the slowest, most-even cooking. Be sure it's at least
a 5-quart capacity.
-
Chris Fennimore
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