STALK OF THE TOWN
It's the season for the elegant, adaptable asparagus
Asparagus, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. I love thee steamed and baked, stir-fried and broiled, bathed in hollandaise sauce and wrapped in prosciutto.

I love thee in omelets and quiches, soups and salads. I love thee for thy lack of calories and powerhouse of nutrients from folic acid to vitamin B9. Thou art stored sunshine and vital flavors of spring.

And yet, you are with us but briefly. So let us rejoice and feast wildly while we may - or at least until mid-June, when the local crop disappears.

All kidding aside, fresh asparagus is the first crop of the new year, and it should be enjoyed as the promise of green things to come after a winter of root vegetables and frozen fare.

These two recipes go from the sublime to the ridiculously easy. You can use them as a first course for a fancy dinner or pair with a salad and a nice crisp sauvignon blanc.

Ingredients:
1 pound asparagus
1 package puff pastry
4 ounces goat cheese
Salt and pepper

Sauce:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup white wine
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper

Directions:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Trim tough ends of asparagus; peel stalks. Cook 3 minutes in boiling water, then to stop cooking (which also helps the vegetable retain its deep-green color); plunge into a bowl of ice water. Divide puff pastry into 8 rectangles; divide asparagus into 4 equal servings. Place 1 bunch asparagus onto 1 rectangle. Top with 1 ounce goat cheese and sprinkling of salt and pepper. Wet edges of pastry with water, place second sheet on top, leaving tips exposed. Press edges to seal; trim excess. Repeat with remaining pastry and asparagus. Put bundles onto parchment lined baking sheet; bake 12 to 15 minutes or until pastry is nicely browned.

For sauce: Melt butter in small saucepan. Stir in flour and cook slowly 3 minutes. Stir in wine and lemon juice; season with salt and pepper. Stir until thickened. Serve with asparagus bundles.

Serves 4

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AND FOR DESSERT . . .

ASPARAGUS SAUTED WITH PROSCIUTTO AND GARLIC
1 pound asparagus
1/8 pound prosciutto, finely diced
1 clove garlic
Fresh black pepper

Trim and peel asparagus and cut on bias into 2-inch pieces. Cook prosciutto in skillet until crisp. Add garlic and asparagus; sauté until asparagus is crisp-tender. Season with black pepper (salt is unnecessary) and serve.

Makes 4 servings.