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In the garden
with Doug Oster

The aroma of minced garlic cloves simmering in butter is about the only thing that can distract me from gardening. Like one of Pavlov’s dogs, I drop my trowel, drawn back to the house by an irresistible force. My aching back and blistered hands are soothed by the time spent with the powerful taste of garlic. Whether it’s mixed with pasta or spread on salmon for the grill, garlic is more than just food, it’s the flavor of life.

The easiest of all crops to grow, garlic is planted in the fall when garden chores have slowed. Right now is the time to order your bulbs for planting to ensure finding your favorite varieties.
One of the keys to growing garlic is starting with good bulbs. Don’t try to plant garlic cloves from the store because they’re most likely from California and will not survive a Pittsburgh winter.
The only way to explain the flavor of homegrown garlic to the uninitiated is to equate it with a freshly picked garden tomato. Everyone understands homegrown tomatoes are superior to anything in stores. The same is true of garlic. It’s a sad day at our house when the garlic from the garden is gone. I grow hundreds of heads a year. When you use two or three heads (yes heads, not cloves) for a batch of pasta, you need a lot of garlic on hand.

Garlic grows well in soil improved with organic matter like mushroom manure or dehydrated manure or compost. Like all plants, garlic needs a good place to grow. Good soil is what makes a green thumb.

After years of trying to grow garlic without success, I learned the proper planting method from a colleague at the Youngstown Vindicator, where I worked as a photographer. He said you need to start with the right type of garlic and plant it by the dark of the moon in October. No matter how deep you plant it, it will be 6-inches-deep when harvested. He gave me some of his garlic, and the next spring I had deep-green sprouts poking up through the cold soil in March. When I harvested the bulbs that summer, they were all 6-inches-deep.

I order my garlic from Bobba-Mike’s garlic farm in Ohio (www.garlicfarm.com), which has quality bulbs at a reasonable price. For good white garlic, I like Music or German White. I always grow about 100 heads of Music; it’s a strong performer even in less-than-ideal conditions. Give it good soil and it will produce large heads of pure-white, strongly flavored garlic.
There are almost as many different varieties of garlic as there are tomatoes. The reds are very popular, including Spanish Roja, Red Toch and Romanian Red, which are grown in the same way as the whites. The bulbs vary in color, from a light pink to a deep red or purple, each one with its own special flavor. This year’s harvest in my garden will include all the garlic above and Persian Star, Beijing, Transylvanian, Georgian Fire and Italian. Late this summer, I’m going to have a garlic party. All my friends will be invited to taste and compare the different varieties.

One of the most wonderful benefits the garlic grower receives is the spring greens—the foliage that sprouts from the bulb. Prized by chefs, spring greens offer a complex taste, starting with a mild garlic flavor and finishing with a kick. They are great chopped in salads or eaten raw. I offer the greens to visitors in my garden, but few are brave enough to try them. Those who do are hooked. Every visit to the spring garden finds my kids and me searching for the early sprouts from the center of the stem to nibble on.
In June, the bulb sends up its seed head, called a scape. It has to be cut off to send energy to the bulb. It’s a shame, because the scape is beautiful, growing straight up then curling around and forming a “P.” It’s edible and adds interest to dishes when cooked. In July, don’t water the garlic. It needs to dry out before harvest. When more than 50 percent of the leaves are brown, it’s time to pull the garlic. If planted in good soil, the heads should come up with a gentle tug. There are always a few that need to be loosened with a spading fork.

For good storage, the bulbs should be cured for about three weeks. Hang or lay them on a screen in a warm, dry place in late summer. Garlic farms store the harvested garlic in barns. I cure mine in my tool shed.

After the bulbs are cured, the stalks can be cut off and the bulbs stored in mesh bags in the kitchen. If cured correctly, the bulbs will last well into the winter. If you would like to braid the garlic, do it while the stems are still green and pliable. Some of the heads can be pulled aside and planted that fall.

Growing garlic is a rewarding pursuit, one I hope you will try.

Doug Oster is the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette’s “Backyard Gardener.” He’s also a contributor to WQED tv13’s “On Q magazine.” To read other gardening articles, log on to www.post-gazette.com. Click on “Garden Forum” to talk with other gardeners or to ask questions. Click on “Garden Tour” to see Oster’s garden.

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